Sumo in Pictures

One of the best trips we took as a family was in November a few days before Thanksgiving.  We bought tickets to see a Sumo tournament in Fukuoka.  This was a big "bucket list" item for us, and since the chances of us attending a Ninja Warrior taping at Mt. Midoriyama are rather slim, this experience made up for it.  After minimal research on ticket buying and seating, we ended up with decent seats in the arena.  I recommend spending at least 4,000 yen per ticket.  Also, you can bring your own food, drinks and pillows for your convenience and comfort.  I think the pictures I took on this trip tell our story pretty well.  So, feel free to read the rest of it in the following pictures and captions.  But first, a bit of history...
     Sumo has been the national sport of Japan for approximately 1500 years.  As with almost all things Japanese, the origins of sumo are religious.  Matches were dedicated to gods with prayers for a bountiful harvest.  The 8th century sumo matches were held in Imperial Courts to celebrate harvests and peace on earth.  Matches were more brutal during this time period until the courts started creating rules and customs that resemble the matches we see today.  As time passed, sumo wrestling was practiced for military purposes and later, professional sumo groups were formed to entertain the rapidly growing plebeian class.

The dohyo is the "ring" where a sumo match takes place. It is 18 sq-ft, 2 ft high, and made up of a special kind of clay.  The inner circle is a little over 15 ft in diameter.  The cover over the ring resembles a Shinto shrine and is decorated with four tassels representing the four seasons.

This was the view from our seats.  We had seats with backs like the ones pictured in the top right corner.  You will spend more for "box seating" (purple areas) and ring side seats.  Sitting ring side can be dangerous if the wrestlers fall off the dohyo.  It happened while we were there.  No one was seriously injured.

Certain websites regarding the sumo experience make a big deal out of being able to sit "Japanese style" for the duration of the tournament.  But, honestly, you can sit however you want.  The Japanese attendees aren't opposed to "criss-cross applesauce." :)

The afternoon session consisted of two to three groups of wrestlers who were ranked from lowest to highest.  The highest ranked wrestlers are called yokozuna and are scheduled last to fight.  However, in sumo there are no weight classes.  So a 500lb wrestler could be paired with a wrestler half his size.  The bigger wrestlers aren't always the winners.

Before each round, the wrestlers process out onto the ring, perform some ritualistic moves, and walk back out until it's their turn to compete.

Before each wrestler, or rikishi, comes out to fight, the announcer calls the wrestler's name in a long, drawn out, nasally voice.  Wrestlers choose poetic names for themselves.

The wrestlers raise their legs and slam them down to the ground to stamp out the evil spirits.  They also move out of the ring to wash themselves with water in order to cleanse the mind and body.  Salt is thrown into the ring to purify it.  However, you have to be a high ranking wrestler to have the salt throwing privilege.

The preparation rituals are 90% of the wrestling experience.  The point is to intimidate your opponent before physical contact is made.  The actual fighting is usually over in 20 seconds.  The longer the wrestlers take to prepare, the more excited the crowd gets.  The Japanese are very passionate about their favorite wrestlers.

The object is to push your opponent out of the ring or cause him to touch the ground with any part of his body (including hair).  The referee to the right shouts words of encouragement to both wrestlers during the match.

One of the larger contenders.

The ring is cleaned periodically throughout the day.

I'm pretty sure the man in red (center) was the defending champ, Hakuho. 

The most successful wrestler is given the opportunity to perform the dohyo-iri ceremony.

Just like all sporting events, you need a commentator box.

Proof I was there!

At the end of the 15-day tournament a grand champion is chosen.  We were there two days before the final rounds. While it is cheaper to attend matches earlier in the 15-day time frame, the excitement level is much higher toward the end of the tournament.  So, if you can afford it, go on the very last day.  I found out from a friend who attended on the last day that Hakuho made it to the final match and lost.

Nara, Kyoto

(Let's pretend I'm still writing this in August, shall we?)  The morning after my climb on Fuji we set out toward Kyoto to find our reserved campsite in Fortress Forest Park.  This site is nestled in a remote place in the mountains.  Without the GPS, written directions, and some gas station employees, we would still be roaming the area trying to find the place.  We had plenty of room for our two tents and a full bathroom within walking distance.  There were other Japanese families camping in the area who made small talk with us and invited my son to play with sparklers after dark.

The next day we set out to find the Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji) in Kyoto.  This is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the area.  It is a Zen Buddhist temple covered in pure gold leaf on two of its three stories.  It houses the relics, or ash remains, of the Buddha.  Walking around in jeans probably wasn't the smartest idea since it was one of the hottest days of the summer.  But, my legs were still marked up and very sore from the climb so I sucked it up.  Soon after entering the park we were approached by a class of students who were obviously trying to complete an assignment for their English class.  Their teacher asked us if her students could ask us some questions.  We agreed and the students (mostly boys) introduced themselves in English and asked us basic questions about our likes and dislikes.  Their responses were written down on notebook paper, so any supplemental questions or comments we added were met with looks of confusion and shyness.  It was funny.

As we moved through the park, we climbed numerous steps and inclines to make our way to the pavilion.  I wasn't sure what to expect, but I thought the pavilion would have been a little bigger than it was.  It sits out on still water framed with perfectly manicured trees. Beyond the pavilion were numerous shrines and stands to buy good luck charms.  There were charms that offered good luck for

everything from good health to passing exam grades.  I did enjoy the gift shop.  The variety of knick knacks, stationery, and coin purses was impressive.  We were also given samples of a tea called "matcha" (maht-cha).  It was very sweet, but not terrible.                                                                                                                                    After walking through Kinkaku-ji we went to search for a place to eat for lunch.  We ended up at an "Italian" restaurant that turned out to be pretty satisfying.                                                                                                                                   

After lunch we wanted to see one of the biggest Buddhas in Japan which is located in a town called Nara.  Again, I had no idea what to expect from this place except a big Buddha statue.  Imagine my surprise at seeing these animals when we first walked into the park! (See deer pics below)

These were free roaming deer that were very used to tourists.  You can buy food for them, but they get pretty aggressive if you don't feed them fast enough.

The main attraction is Great Buddha Hall which houses the world's largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana.  This was the kind of attraction I had been waiting to see.  I enjoy larger-than-life exhibits, and this one did not disappoint.  The main Buddha statue sits just inside the entrance of the temple.  I find it interesting that the hand gesture of the Buddha is a lot like the hand gestures of Christ from European Renaissance paintings.  The Hall houses other Buddhist statues of similar size including a souvenir stand.   

One of the most interesting statues sits just outside the Great Hall on the right (pictured below). This is a statue of a Buddhist disciple. The white plaque instructs you to rub a part of your body that ails you, then rub the same body part on the statue, and you will be healed of your physical suffering.

Great Buddha Hall

Entrance to the Hall.  Notice the unbelievable door size!

I highly recommend visiting this area if you have the chance.  The entrance fees are affordable, and the unique architecture and statues are amazing.  Just don't do it after an epic mountain climb. The stairs are a killer!