"Too Much Hard" (Climbing Fuji-San)

On Sunday, August 18th I departed Camp Fuji with my friends, Vega, Letty and their daughters Jody (age 21) and Maya (age 8) and left my husband and son behind at the Inn.  My husband had never planned on making the Fuji climb and we felt our son didn't have the stamina yet to endure such a hike.  We left for Gotenba Train Station at 4:00p, bought our bus tickets, and sat around until 6:00 or so for the bus to arrive.  The one hour bus ride dropped us off at the 5th Station of the Subashiri Trail.  This trail is one of four main trails on Mt. Fuji and considered one of the "easiest," but I find that hard to believe now that I've been on it.  Mt. Fuji is divided into 10 stations.  Most people start at 5, which is in the "middle" of the mountain, and work their way to the summit from there.  Subashiri 5th Station is composed of a covered area with picnic tables, two souvenir shops, and a restroom (cost: 200 yen per use).  The five of us took our time making sure we had everything we needed and began our trek at 8:30pm.  It was completely dark on the trail, so we used our flashlights to find our way. We moved through forest-like conditions and immediately started climbing large steps of rock in random formations.  With hiking stick in hand (cost: 900 yen at 5th Station, stamped and dated) I was confident that I was carrying the right amount of weight on my back to get me through this endeavor (one backpack, one Camelbak).  The five of us carefully and slowly ascended the mountain passing the occasional couple or hiking group making their way down the mountain.  Most greeted us with a polite "Konbanwa!" and continued on their way.  We said 'hello' to one Japanese couple, and asked them how their hike went.  The young woman responded with a pained look on her face, "Too much hard!"  Her reaction made us laugh and we continued our ascent not fully aware that we would share her sentiment within 24 hours.

This was the first time I hiked at night.  I enjoyed it for the most part.  It's not a creepy experience like one might expect.  It's very peaceful and the weather was perfect.  The sky was clear so you could see the moon through the trees.  After about an hour or so, we were able to peek through the tree line at the city below.  I tried to take pictures, but they didn't come out well at all.  The real photographers were found in other corners of the trail setting up their tripods and impressive looking cameras waiting to capture the perfect shot.  Jody and I started moving ahead from the other three and reached the 6th Station around 10pm.  Surprisingly, her cell phone had signal and she called down to her family who were about 15 minutes or so behind us.  I was surprised that it took us 90 minutes just to get from Station 5 to 6.  You can look up the elevations at each station by clicking this link http://www.fujiyama-navi.jp/fujitozan/route/page/subashiri/lang/en/.  After a 15 minute break, we continued up to New 7th Station.  This seemed longer than the stretch between 5 and 6.  The incline does NOT let up, and the later it got the more tired we became.  As we kept moving higher, the trees started to disappear and we were moving above the tree line.  The views down below were amazing.  Looking up I could see the next station.  The lights would twinkle from the hut making it look closer than it really was.  We had to take more frequent breaks along the trail due to the thinning air.  One of the most encouraging things to see on the trails are the signs that tell you that the next station is only 200 meters ahead.  There was not much to see at New 7th, so we kept moving toward Original 7th Station.  It was after midnight and a lot colder than it was when we started a few hours before.  I pulled out my beanie hat and heavier jacket.  By the time we reached Original 7th it was approximately 2:00 am.  Jody and I were exhausted.  I don't know how people get to the summit for sunrise without a solid 7-8 hours of sleep before climbing.  That one hour nap I had that afternoon wasn't cutting it.  Original 7th was equipped with a decent sized hut, toilets and benches.  The longer we sat resting, the colder we got.  I even stood in the toilet stall (mind you these are "squatter" toilets in a Port-a-Potty type building) for a few extra minutes just to enjoy the warmer temperature.  We had not planned on forking out the cash to sleep in a hut, but after sitting for awhile outside, we decided to invest in a few hours of sleep.  The huts cost an average of $60-$70 per person.  We shared a futon on a tatami mat platform since the requirement is to share futons. If I had been by myself, I may have had to share one with a stranger.  We went to sleep around 2:45a and awoke at the sound of the hut keeper at 4:45am in time for the sunrise.  Jody couldn't wake up enough to see it, so I stepped out on my own.  This is what I saw...

That's me in shadow.

Feeling surprisingly refreshed after only a couple of hours of sleep, I pulled out some snacks from my pack and had "breakfast."  After a few minutes I looked over, and there was Vega standing there watching the sunrise.  I told him his daughter was having a hard time getting up, so after a couple of attempts at waking her, he decided to go in and give it a try.  No luck.  At 6:00am we decided to continue up the mountain ourselves.  It took us 3 1/2 hours to get to the summit that morning.  The terrain is immensely dusty and rocky.  We took breaks at the 8th and 9th stations where the other trails come together.  It was fun to watch the station workers blow dust off people's clothing with leaf blowers.  There were Japanese Fuji guides leading tour groups in and out of 8th station.

8th Station--Fuji Guide pictured below

Our ascent to the summit included a lot more breaks along the trail.  The climb just doesn't get easier. We were following a long line of people to the top and it was encouraging to see that others needed to take a minute or two at each turn to summon some more strength to keep moving.  The 9th Station had no hut, but we moved off the trail to sit for a few minutes before making the home stretch to the summit.  I collected a few lava rocks here for souvenirs.

Break time at 9th Station (That's Vega in the upper right in the reclining position :)

After our break at 9th Station I was excited that we were finally going to make it to the top.  I thought the views of hikers descending the mountain made for great photos.

View of lower stations from the summit

When we reached the 10th Station the line slowed so each group of hikers could capture the moment on camera.  It was a great feeling to finally make it to the top despite the sore muscles I was developing in my legs.  The area at the summit looks like an open farmers market with souvenir stands, food vendors and benches for resting.  We spent 90 minutes at the top resting, walking and taking pictures.  I had my hiking stick branded with two summit stamps for 300 yen.  I also took pictures of the volcano's crater.  Hikers have the option of taking the hour walk around the crater, but at that point I had no desire to add extra hiking to my schedule.   I had to start thinking about getting down off this mountain!

The view could have been better at the top.  There were holes in the clouds where I could see down the mountain and out into the city.

We made it!

After a few more snacks and refills of water, we started our descent down the mountain.  Let me just say that if you read the reviews of the Subashiri Trail where the "sand slide" at 7th Station is considered "fun," just know that IT'S A LIE! This was the hardest part of the hike for me.  The descent from 10 to 7 was unstable enough with the terrain being nothing but dry, loose dirt and gravel.  After Station 7 you have the option of taking the sand slide that bypasses the 6th Station and rejoins the main trail right before Subashiri 5th Station.  This slide starts off as a ditch of dirt and gravel and does not let up until you're 20-30 minutes away from getting to 5th Station.  The dirt beneath your feet is constantly giving way so that you are "slide walking" at an uncomfortable momentum.  I don't know how people do it without a hiking stick to hold on to.  I tried to adjust my technique in walking, running, slalom stepping, etc.  But nothing was comfortable.  It took us 5 hours (with breaks) to reach the tree covered part of the trail.  I left my friend behind so he could rest his knee before conquering the last few hundred meters and crossed the "finish line" at 4:30p.  What made the descent worth it was observing three deer in the forest part of the trail.  They seemed very comfortable being around people, but I kept my distance.  I took some pictures, but none of them turned out well.  Little did I know I would get a better opportunity at photographing deer two days later in Nara near Kyoto.

When I passed through the Torii gate marking the 5th Station I lifted my arms in victory shouting, "Yes!!"  I was so tired and dirty beyond belief.  The station workers greeted me with "Okaerinasai!" (Welcome back!) and handed me a small round cup of water.  I was not prepared for the flavor of salt and fish (?) that attacked my taste buds.  It was not the cool drink of water I was hoping for.  Soon after I got back, my friends caught up with me and the only one left on the mountain was Jody.  She had made it to the summit on her own and was on her way down.  I decided to take the bus home ahead of them so I could shower and crash.  My husband picked me up at the train station and was proud of me for making the climb.

I'm glad I did it.  Climbing Fuji-san is not for wimps.  If I were to do it again, I would start at Station 1 and finish my ascent at a hut station, get 7-8 hours of sleep and then descend to Station 5.  I don't need to climb to the summit again.  Once is enough for me.

I would like to give credit to photographer, Andy Gray for writing such a true and detailed account of his Fuji hikes.  I was well-prepared for the hike in terms of supplies and hiking conditions because I read his blog.  To read his story, click here http://www.globalcompassion.com/climbing-fuji.htm

View of Mt. Fuji from Camp Fuji

Camp Fuji

After a warm night in the Mountain View Inn (Camp Fuji), we were awakened by loud explosions from heavy artillery that shook our room.  If I hadn't already been accustomed to living on military bases, this would have scared me more than it did.  Shortly after that the U.S. and Japan anthems played over the speakers marking that it was 0800.  I was excited to peek outside to get my first glimpse of the great mountain, but our window was facing the wrong direction.  We took our time getting ready for the day and then decided to find some food on base.  We were told that we could eat in the mess hall if we acted as if we were traveling with this high school band who were on base preparing for a performance.  By the time we got there, the mess hall was closed and the only other place to eat was for enlisted members only.  In addition to needing food, we also needed gas.  The fuel pumps were located at the most raw, industrial setup of a gas station I had ever seen.  Also, the attendant doesn't work on weekends, so we had to call to see if he would come out to turn on the pumps.  We waited for awhile and gave up and found gas out in town.  Gas is a lot more expensive off base since you are charged by the liter instead of the gallon.

The town where Mt. Fuji is located is called Gotenba (pronounced Go-tem-bah).  It is very Westernized with road medians, Denny's and Big Boy restaurants.  We ate at Denny's, but the only Denny's-esque dish available was french toast.  The rest was a kind of Japanese food common in family-style restaurants that does not agree with my stomach.

After our meal we went back to the Inn so I could take a nap before starting the hike.  I had about an hour of sleep and then I woke up to pack my gear.  As it turns out, an hour nap is not enough.  But, more on that later.

The Long and Winding Road (Driving to Mt. Fuji)

August 17, 2013 marked Day One of our family adventure to Mt. Fuji.  We traveled with another family in our separate rental cars from Sasebo to Camp Fuji (located near Tokyo).  I highly recommend renting a car from the Navy base because they give you toll passes to use throughout your cross country trek.  We literally saved hundreds of dollars in tolls round trip.  We left Sasebo at 4:30am and maneuvered our way through countless mountain tunnels and winding roads toward Fuji-san with the help of our Google Maps app.  After a couple of missed exits and u-turns, I finally got the hang of navigating my husband down the expressway. Trying to match the Kanji symbols on the the app with the Kanji on the road signs was tricky.  The drive was smooth and uneventful until about 1pm when we encountered a traffic jam due to homeward bound families who had participated in Obon Week festivities.  What was originally expected to be a 13 hour drive had just increased by 3 hours.

Despite the traffic issues, I enjoyed the fact that all of the rest areas in Japan are ON the highway.  They are big, clean, and resemble mini-malls.  There is no shortage of food, and the hi-tech Western toilets are always fun to use.

By nightfall we were still on the road getting closer and closer to what we thought was going to be Camp Fuji Marine Base.  When I plugged in our destination into Google Maps, I chose the Japanese Defense base that was supposed to be right across the street from Camp Fuji since I couldn't find Camp Fuji itself in the app.  It turns out I chose the wrong Japanese base.  It was already after 9pm and we were all so tired from traveling.  One of the Japanese guards tried to talk to us, but he could tell by the look on my face that I wasn't understanding anything he was saying.  He called over another guard who had minimal English skills, so we tried comparing our iPhone maps to find Camp Fuji.  It turns out we had turned away from Camp Fuji when we got off the expressway, so we started driving back the way we came.  Another 30-45 mins went by and we finally saw the small Torii gate marking the base.

Now, if you know anything about the Marines, they are not known for luxurious accommodations.  We had reservations at the Mountain View Inn on the base and the desk clerk was not there when we arrived.  Our rooms had been left unlocked so we could get in to sleep and check in the next morning.  When we walked in we discovered the room had no air conditioning.  At that point, I just wanted to go to sleep. So we dropped our bags and crashed next to the basic fan oscillating on top of the side table.

Arita Porcelain Festival

At the end of April/beginning of May the town of Arita hosts the largest porcelain festival on Kyushu.  I visited three different areas of this festival over two days.  I have never seen so much china in my entire life!  The first day I visited China-in-the-Park which is where the factories for the Fukagawa brand are located.  There were large shops filled with dinner sets, rice bowls, vases, utensils, etc.  From there my friends and I went into Arita and the narrow streets were lined with porcelain shops. My eyes start to blur after awhile looking at all of the finely decorated china.  The good thing is that there is something for everyone's budget.  I walked away with 3 rice bowls and a mortar/pestle set.  We were also given free rice bowls from some people who were selling china near our parking place.  I suppose they were thank you gifts for parking in their front yard for 1,000 yen.

Lake Isanoura

I can't believe I haven't posted since March! Shame on me. Since then we have been camping several times in various places near Sasebo.  Our favorite place so far is Lake Isanoura.  It's about a 30-minute drive and tucked away in a higher elevation.  The site is immaculate, quiet, and scenic.  We haven't stayed in any of the cabins yet, but the 3 room tent we purchased at a recycle store has served us very well.  There is also a path you can hike that takes you up above the tree line.  Good workout, well worth the effort.

Our second visit to Isanoura was more eventful.  We were camped around our grill fire with some friends when an older Japanese man and his daughter (maybe in her 20's) came up to us to say 'hi' and practice the little English they knew.  They talked to us for a few minutes and left.  About five minutes later they returned with the rest of their family, Japanese beers in hand.  They offered us the bottles and started talking to us as best as they could.  One of the ladies could speak English pretty well, so she tried translating what the older man was saying.  They were so fascinated that we were from Florida and our friends were from Texas they would respond with these low, prolonged guttural noises that made me laugh.  Our friends offered them some Coronas, and again they responded with bows and noises that indicated their amazement over the fact they were about to drink a Mexican beer.  It was a great moment on our trip.

Later that night our enjoyable evening was ruined when a large group of Japanese people started singing and cheering into the wee hours of the night.  They sounded like a sports team partying except their cheers were always yelled/sung in unison.  What's worse is that they kept moving around the campsite, so once you were able to tune them out, they would move closer and wake us all over again.  They finally left around 7am.

Despite the disruption, I would still go back to Lake Isanoura.  It's close, affordable, and it makes you feel like you're "getting away from it all" without having to go far at all.

Arkas Music Festival 2013

I give my husband credit for choosing this concert. After my son's last basketball game of the season we went to the Arkas Center which houses at least two performance venues; one great hall and one recital hall. The festival lasts all weekend with concerts that seem to feature musicians of all ages and abilities. We saw the very end of an all-girl concert band that presented a jazz/rock influenced piece complete with choreography. Then a group of 8 female vocalists performed three beautiful pieces in Japanese. Their phrasing was impressive. During a break between groups we listened to a string quartet then made our way back to the main hall to listen to the Sasebo Junior Orchestra. This group had some very talented players including the piccoloist and harpist. Their program included music by Elgar, Brahms, and Tchaikovsky. It was a great way to end the day.

Exploring Feb-Mar 2013

Here is an overdue pictorial review of the last couple of months for us.  I'm very glad winter is over and Spring is here.  Highs are in the 50's/60's.  People keep warning me about summer here, but after living in the Caribbean for almost two years, I'm pretty sure I can handle it.  In fact, I look forward to it!

Below are pictures of Saikai Park (which is the most elaborate playground I've ever seen), shots from Mt. Kunimi and our trip to the Nagasaki Lantern Festival.

Best Thing Since Sliced Bread: The GPS

Yesterday I ventured out into Sasebo City in search of a recycle shop (thrift store) that my husband discovered the day before.  Seeking out various stores of this kind has been a recent family activity for us.  After listening to his directions three times and equipping myself with the Maps app on my iPhone (which couldn't be programmed with my destination), I jumped in our MPV that is almost too big for these Japanese roads and headed toward my destination.

In about five minutes after leaving the security of my gated military housing I was headed down the wrong road.  The roads here are color coded and I took the wrong color on the Nishi-Kyushu Expressway.  What would have been a 20 minute ride turned out to be an hour and a half!  Being the Type A person that I am, I usually follow directions very well.  When the surroundings don't agree with the instructions in my head, then we have a problem.  After a very scenic detour and 400 yen that I didn't need to spend in tolls, I turned off the expressway and turned on the GPS app.  It told me how to get back to a road I was familiar with and after two or three phone calls with my husband (the first of which being the venting of my frustrations), I ended up making a huge circle and decided to give it one more try.  The second attempt put me on the correct colored road and I found the shop with little difficulty.  I figured for all the trouble I spent getting there I should be able to find a rare treasure in that store for a DOLLAR!!  That didn't happen.  After combing through the store for a little over an hour (because believe me, I was going to make this trip worth my while) I only walked away with a pack of DVD-R's that I got for 315 yen.

I arrived home with a hard lesson learned about how to navigate the expressway and gave thanks for the GPS that put me back on the right track.  If it weren't for that and my husband coaching me back to familiar territory, I would still be roaming around the rice fields of Arita buying porcelain pottery from some locals.