"Too Much Hard" (Climbing Fuji-San)

On Sunday, August 18th I departed Camp Fuji with my friends, Vega, Letty and their daughters Jody (age 21) and Maya (age 8) and left my husband and son behind at the Inn.  My husband had never planned on making the Fuji climb and we felt our son didn't have the stamina yet to endure such a hike.  We left for Gotenba Train Station at 4:00p, bought our bus tickets, and sat around until 6:00 or so for the bus to arrive.  The one hour bus ride dropped us off at the 5th Station of the Subashiri Trail.  This trail is one of four main trails on Mt. Fuji and considered one of the "easiest," but I find that hard to believe now that I've been on it.  Mt. Fuji is divided into 10 stations.  Most people start at 5, which is in the "middle" of the mountain, and work their way to the summit from there.  Subashiri 5th Station is composed of a covered area with picnic tables, two souvenir shops, and a restroom (cost: 200 yen per use).  The five of us took our time making sure we had everything we needed and began our trek at 8:30pm.  It was completely dark on the trail, so we used our flashlights to find our way. We moved through forest-like conditions and immediately started climbing large steps of rock in random formations.  With hiking stick in hand (cost: 900 yen at 5th Station, stamped and dated) I was confident that I was carrying the right amount of weight on my back to get me through this endeavor (one backpack, one Camelbak).  The five of us carefully and slowly ascended the mountain passing the occasional couple or hiking group making their way down the mountain.  Most greeted us with a polite "Konbanwa!" and continued on their way.  We said 'hello' to one Japanese couple, and asked them how their hike went.  The young woman responded with a pained look on her face, "Too much hard!"  Her reaction made us laugh and we continued our ascent not fully aware that we would share her sentiment within 24 hours.

This was the first time I hiked at night.  I enjoyed it for the most part.  It's not a creepy experience like one might expect.  It's very peaceful and the weather was perfect.  The sky was clear so you could see the moon through the trees.  After about an hour or so, we were able to peek through the tree line at the city below.  I tried to take pictures, but they didn't come out well at all.  The real photographers were found in other corners of the trail setting up their tripods and impressive looking cameras waiting to capture the perfect shot.  Jody and I started moving ahead from the other three and reached the 6th Station around 10pm.  Surprisingly, her cell phone had signal and she called down to her family who were about 15 minutes or so behind us.  I was surprised that it took us 90 minutes just to get from Station 5 to 6.  You can look up the elevations at each station by clicking this link http://www.fujiyama-navi.jp/fujitozan/route/page/subashiri/lang/en/.  After a 15 minute break, we continued up to New 7th Station.  This seemed longer than the stretch between 5 and 6.  The incline does NOT let up, and the later it got the more tired we became.  As we kept moving higher, the trees started to disappear and we were moving above the tree line.  The views down below were amazing.  Looking up I could see the next station.  The lights would twinkle from the hut making it look closer than it really was.  We had to take more frequent breaks along the trail due to the thinning air.  One of the most encouraging things to see on the trails are the signs that tell you that the next station is only 200 meters ahead.  There was not much to see at New 7th, so we kept moving toward Original 7th Station.  It was after midnight and a lot colder than it was when we started a few hours before.  I pulled out my beanie hat and heavier jacket.  By the time we reached Original 7th it was approximately 2:00 am.  Jody and I were exhausted.  I don't know how people get to the summit for sunrise without a solid 7-8 hours of sleep before climbing.  That one hour nap I had that afternoon wasn't cutting it.  Original 7th was equipped with a decent sized hut, toilets and benches.  The longer we sat resting, the colder we got.  I even stood in the toilet stall (mind you these are "squatter" toilets in a Port-a-Potty type building) for a few extra minutes just to enjoy the warmer temperature.  We had not planned on forking out the cash to sleep in a hut, but after sitting for awhile outside, we decided to invest in a few hours of sleep.  The huts cost an average of $60-$70 per person.  We shared a futon on a tatami mat platform since the requirement is to share futons. If I had been by myself, I may have had to share one with a stranger.  We went to sleep around 2:45a and awoke at the sound of the hut keeper at 4:45am in time for the sunrise.  Jody couldn't wake up enough to see it, so I stepped out on my own.  This is what I saw...

That's me in shadow.

Feeling surprisingly refreshed after only a couple of hours of sleep, I pulled out some snacks from my pack and had "breakfast."  After a few minutes I looked over, and there was Vega standing there watching the sunrise.  I told him his daughter was having a hard time getting up, so after a couple of attempts at waking her, he decided to go in and give it a try.  No luck.  At 6:00am we decided to continue up the mountain ourselves.  It took us 3 1/2 hours to get to the summit that morning.  The terrain is immensely dusty and rocky.  We took breaks at the 8th and 9th stations where the other trails come together.  It was fun to watch the station workers blow dust off people's clothing with leaf blowers.  There were Japanese Fuji guides leading tour groups in and out of 8th station.

8th Station--Fuji Guide pictured below

Our ascent to the summit included a lot more breaks along the trail.  The climb just doesn't get easier. We were following a long line of people to the top and it was encouraging to see that others needed to take a minute or two at each turn to summon some more strength to keep moving.  The 9th Station had no hut, but we moved off the trail to sit for a few minutes before making the home stretch to the summit.  I collected a few lava rocks here for souvenirs.

Break time at 9th Station (That's Vega in the upper right in the reclining position :)

After our break at 9th Station I was excited that we were finally going to make it to the top.  I thought the views of hikers descending the mountain made for great photos.

View of lower stations from the summit

When we reached the 10th Station the line slowed so each group of hikers could capture the moment on camera.  It was a great feeling to finally make it to the top despite the sore muscles I was developing in my legs.  The area at the summit looks like an open farmers market with souvenir stands, food vendors and benches for resting.  We spent 90 minutes at the top resting, walking and taking pictures.  I had my hiking stick branded with two summit stamps for 300 yen.  I also took pictures of the volcano's crater.  Hikers have the option of taking the hour walk around the crater, but at that point I had no desire to add extra hiking to my schedule.   I had to start thinking about getting down off this mountain!

The view could have been better at the top.  There were holes in the clouds where I could see down the mountain and out into the city.

We made it!

After a few more snacks and refills of water, we started our descent down the mountain.  Let me just say that if you read the reviews of the Subashiri Trail where the "sand slide" at 7th Station is considered "fun," just know that IT'S A LIE! This was the hardest part of the hike for me.  The descent from 10 to 7 was unstable enough with the terrain being nothing but dry, loose dirt and gravel.  After Station 7 you have the option of taking the sand slide that bypasses the 6th Station and rejoins the main trail right before Subashiri 5th Station.  This slide starts off as a ditch of dirt and gravel and does not let up until you're 20-30 minutes away from getting to 5th Station.  The dirt beneath your feet is constantly giving way so that you are "slide walking" at an uncomfortable momentum.  I don't know how people do it without a hiking stick to hold on to.  I tried to adjust my technique in walking, running, slalom stepping, etc.  But nothing was comfortable.  It took us 5 hours (with breaks) to reach the tree covered part of the trail.  I left my friend behind so he could rest his knee before conquering the last few hundred meters and crossed the "finish line" at 4:30p.  What made the descent worth it was observing three deer in the forest part of the trail.  They seemed very comfortable being around people, but I kept my distance.  I took some pictures, but none of them turned out well.  Little did I know I would get a better opportunity at photographing deer two days later in Nara near Kyoto.

When I passed through the Torii gate marking the 5th Station I lifted my arms in victory shouting, "Yes!!"  I was so tired and dirty beyond belief.  The station workers greeted me with "Okaerinasai!" (Welcome back!) and handed me a small round cup of water.  I was not prepared for the flavor of salt and fish (?) that attacked my taste buds.  It was not the cool drink of water I was hoping for.  Soon after I got back, my friends caught up with me and the only one left on the mountain was Jody.  She had made it to the summit on her own and was on her way down.  I decided to take the bus home ahead of them so I could shower and crash.  My husband picked me up at the train station and was proud of me for making the climb.

I'm glad I did it.  Climbing Fuji-san is not for wimps.  If I were to do it again, I would start at Station 1 and finish my ascent at a hut station, get 7-8 hours of sleep and then descend to Station 5.  I don't need to climb to the summit again.  Once is enough for me.

I would like to give credit to photographer, Andy Gray for writing such a true and detailed account of his Fuji hikes.  I was well-prepared for the hike in terms of supplies and hiking conditions because I read his blog.  To read his story, click here http://www.globalcompassion.com/climbing-fuji.htm

View of Mt. Fuji from Camp Fuji