School Field Trip

I had the opportunity to help chaperone a field trip with my son's fourth grade class to Uki Elementary school in Isahaya. It was a long bus ride getting there clocking one hour and 45 minutes. We were warned that the school would be cold because most schools do not have heat or air conditioning. I seem to remember that from my first trip to Japan 22 years ago, but that was during the summer months. The mountains and valleys along the highway were sprinkled with snow. We hadn't seen any snow in Sasebo that morning. Will and I were dressed in layers and had an umbrella. It rained the whole day and the temperature stayed around 40 degrees.

The bus stopped at the bottom of a steep, winding hill so we "hiked" our way up to the school where the principal was waiting for us at the front entrance. We put our shoes in cubbies and put on slippers to wear inside. The school building reminded me of the architecture and quality of a Stateside public school from the early 1980's. We filed into the gym where the entire student body was sitting on the floor waiting patiently for us to arrive. They started clapping as our students were guided to the front of the gym to sit down facing them.

 

It never ceases to amaze me the level of organization the Japanese have.  Even the students sit in exactly the same position (arms wrapped around knees), where our kids are usually in a mixture of cross legged position, legs to the side, or haphazard slump.

There were a few speeches made by the principal and leaders of the local Rotary club.  The English portions they prepared were very similar.  Common sentences were "Welcome to Uki Elementary.  Let's enjoy this time together.  Let's learn about our cultures."  There were also two Japanese students who spoke to the Darby kids (that's us) in English, and one of the Darby students spoke to the Japanese students in their language.  After the speeches, most of the older students went back to class while the remaining Japanese 4th and 5th graders stayed to do activities with the Darby kids.

Each Darby student was paired with a Japanese student and then paired with another pair to make groups of four.  They introduced themselves as best they could.  They were all wearing name tags, so that helped.  Will's partner was a boy named Daito (dye-toh).  He was super cute and very polite.  He pulled out his English workbook a couple of times to figure out how to say something to Will.  Their first activity was to play Rock-Paper-Scissors.  They quickly discovered that they had different ways of playing the game.  The winners of each game would stand during a round of applause and then play another round.  After three rounds, the teacher in charge taught the Darby kids an extra part to the game.  The winner of the game is supposed to chant (achi-mun-deh-oh!) and then mime a swipe across their opponent's throat with their finger on the last syllable.  The opponent is supposed to guess which way the finger will swipe and then turn his head in the opposite direction to be the ultimate winner.  I have no idea what the chant means or if I even understood it correctly, but it was funny to see it in action.

The next activity was a relay race across the gym.  Will's team won the second round.  After that each pair worked on designing a kite with markers.  Most kids chose the illustrations on the packaging while others sketched out images from Pokemon and another Japanese cartoon I wasn't familiar with.  Everyone was freezing the entire time in the gym, especially the parents who were sitting to the side watching the kids do their thing. 

Despite the cold, I had a good time talking to some Japanese women who asked me if I was a teacher and about my overall experience in Sasebo.  Their English was very good.  I tried to speak as much Japanese as I could, but I still have a lot of vocabulary gaps.  One woman was nice enough to explain the verb "to have" in Japanese for me.  Another woman asked me about my travel experiences and told me that she had visited 39 countries!  She also wanted me to guess her age after she had asked me mine.  I guessed 56, but she said she is 71!!  The Japanese age so well. 

      After the kite activity, we climbed three flights of stairs to a classroom where we ate our lunch.  I packed lunch for Will and myself since I wasn't sure if we would like the school lunch.  The Japanese are responsible for carrying up the crates of milk and serving themselves their meal.  No one eats until everyone is served.  Their meal consisted of a potato vegetable soup, fried fish cake, some kind of pickled salad, and bread.  Surprisingly, Will was interested in trying it, but I told him he had his own food to eat.  After we ate our lunch, one of the teachers offered us one of the extra Japanese meals they had on hand, so Will lucked out and got his wish.  We both thought the soup was really good.  The other stuff...not so much. 

By the time lunch was over we were all ready to get back on the warm bus.  Right before we left the classroom Will and his friend noticed the English alphabet posted on the wall and started singing the "ABC" song.  When they got to the "Now I know my ABC's" part, they sang "blah, blah, blah" instead, and the Japanese woman standing next to me overheard it and laughed. She asked me if they were doing that as a joke.  I said yes and that they were being silly.  She said she would tell her own students about it in their English class and teach them the "blah, blah" part.

The bus ride home was much shorter and most of us were thawed out by the time we reached the school.  I'm glad Will had the chance to visit a Japanese school.  He was talking about the potato soup the rest of the day. :)

Sumo in Pictures

One of the best trips we took as a family was in November a few days before Thanksgiving.  We bought tickets to see a Sumo tournament in Fukuoka.  This was a big "bucket list" item for us, and since the chances of us attending a Ninja Warrior taping at Mt. Midoriyama are rather slim, this experience made up for it.  After minimal research on ticket buying and seating, we ended up with decent seats in the arena.  I recommend spending at least 4,000 yen per ticket.  Also, you can bring your own food, drinks and pillows for your convenience and comfort.  I think the pictures I took on this trip tell our story pretty well.  So, feel free to read the rest of it in the following pictures and captions.  But first, a bit of history...
     Sumo has been the national sport of Japan for approximately 1500 years.  As with almost all things Japanese, the origins of sumo are religious.  Matches were dedicated to gods with prayers for a bountiful harvest.  The 8th century sumo matches were held in Imperial Courts to celebrate harvests and peace on earth.  Matches were more brutal during this time period until the courts started creating rules and customs that resemble the matches we see today.  As time passed, sumo wrestling was practiced for military purposes and later, professional sumo groups were formed to entertain the rapidly growing plebeian class.

The dohyo is the "ring" where a sumo match takes place. It is 18 sq-ft, 2 ft high, and made up of a special kind of clay.  The inner circle is a little over 15 ft in diameter.  The cover over the ring resembles a Shinto shrine and is decorated with four tassels representing the four seasons.

This was the view from our seats.  We had seats with backs like the ones pictured in the top right corner.  You will spend more for "box seating" (purple areas) and ring side seats.  Sitting ring side can be dangerous if the wrestlers fall off the dohyo.  It happened while we were there.  No one was seriously injured.

Certain websites regarding the sumo experience make a big deal out of being able to sit "Japanese style" for the duration of the tournament.  But, honestly, you can sit however you want.  The Japanese attendees aren't opposed to "criss-cross applesauce." :)

The afternoon session consisted of two to three groups of wrestlers who were ranked from lowest to highest.  The highest ranked wrestlers are called yokozuna and are scheduled last to fight.  However, in sumo there are no weight classes.  So a 500lb wrestler could be paired with a wrestler half his size.  The bigger wrestlers aren't always the winners.

Before each round, the wrestlers process out onto the ring, perform some ritualistic moves, and walk back out until it's their turn to compete.

Before each wrestler, or rikishi, comes out to fight, the announcer calls the wrestler's name in a long, drawn out, nasally voice.  Wrestlers choose poetic names for themselves.

The wrestlers raise their legs and slam them down to the ground to stamp out the evil spirits.  They also move out of the ring to wash themselves with water in order to cleanse the mind and body.  Salt is thrown into the ring to purify it.  However, you have to be a high ranking wrestler to have the salt throwing privilege.

The preparation rituals are 90% of the wrestling experience.  The point is to intimidate your opponent before physical contact is made.  The actual fighting is usually over in 20 seconds.  The longer the wrestlers take to prepare, the more excited the crowd gets.  The Japanese are very passionate about their favorite wrestlers.

The object is to push your opponent out of the ring or cause him to touch the ground with any part of his body (including hair).  The referee to the right shouts words of encouragement to both wrestlers during the match.

One of the larger contenders.

The ring is cleaned periodically throughout the day.

I'm pretty sure the man in red (center) was the defending champ, Hakuho. 

The most successful wrestler is given the opportunity to perform the dohyo-iri ceremony.

Just like all sporting events, you need a commentator box.

Proof I was there!

At the end of the 15-day tournament a grand champion is chosen.  We were there two days before the final rounds. While it is cheaper to attend matches earlier in the 15-day time frame, the excitement level is much higher toward the end of the tournament.  So, if you can afford it, go on the very last day.  I found out from a friend who attended on the last day that Hakuho made it to the final match and lost.

Nara, Kyoto

(Let's pretend I'm still writing this in August, shall we?)  The morning after my climb on Fuji we set out toward Kyoto to find our reserved campsite in Fortress Forest Park.  This site is nestled in a remote place in the mountains.  Without the GPS, written directions, and some gas station employees, we would still be roaming the area trying to find the place.  We had plenty of room for our two tents and a full bathroom within walking distance.  There were other Japanese families camping in the area who made small talk with us and invited my son to play with sparklers after dark.

The next day we set out to find the Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji) in Kyoto.  This is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the area.  It is a Zen Buddhist temple covered in pure gold leaf on two of its three stories.  It houses the relics, or ash remains, of the Buddha.  Walking around in jeans probably wasn't the smartest idea since it was one of the hottest days of the summer.  But, my legs were still marked up and very sore from the climb so I sucked it up.  Soon after entering the park we were approached by a class of students who were obviously trying to complete an assignment for their English class.  Their teacher asked us if her students could ask us some questions.  We agreed and the students (mostly boys) introduced themselves in English and asked us basic questions about our likes and dislikes.  Their responses were written down on notebook paper, so any supplemental questions or comments we added were met with looks of confusion and shyness.  It was funny.

As we moved through the park, we climbed numerous steps and inclines to make our way to the pavilion.  I wasn't sure what to expect, but I thought the pavilion would have been a little bigger than it was.  It sits out on still water framed with perfectly manicured trees. Beyond the pavilion were numerous shrines and stands to buy good luck charms.  There were charms that offered good luck for

everything from good health to passing exam grades.  I did enjoy the gift shop.  The variety of knick knacks, stationery, and coin purses was impressive.  We were also given samples of a tea called "matcha" (maht-cha).  It was very sweet, but not terrible.                                                                                                                                    After walking through Kinkaku-ji we went to search for a place to eat for lunch.  We ended up at an "Italian" restaurant that turned out to be pretty satisfying.                                                                                                                                   

After lunch we wanted to see one of the biggest Buddhas in Japan which is located in a town called Nara.  Again, I had no idea what to expect from this place except a big Buddha statue.  Imagine my surprise at seeing these animals when we first walked into the park! (See deer pics below)

These were free roaming deer that were very used to tourists.  You can buy food for them, but they get pretty aggressive if you don't feed them fast enough.

The main attraction is Great Buddha Hall which houses the world's largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana.  This was the kind of attraction I had been waiting to see.  I enjoy larger-than-life exhibits, and this one did not disappoint.  The main Buddha statue sits just inside the entrance of the temple.  I find it interesting that the hand gesture of the Buddha is a lot like the hand gestures of Christ from European Renaissance paintings.  The Hall houses other Buddhist statues of similar size including a souvenir stand.   

One of the most interesting statues sits just outside the Great Hall on the right (pictured below). This is a statue of a Buddhist disciple. The white plaque instructs you to rub a part of your body that ails you, then rub the same body part on the statue, and you will be healed of your physical suffering.

Great Buddha Hall

Entrance to the Hall.  Notice the unbelievable door size!

I highly recommend visiting this area if you have the chance.  The entrance fees are affordable, and the unique architecture and statues are amazing.  Just don't do it after an epic mountain climb. The stairs are a killer!

"Too Much Hard" (Climbing Fuji-San)

On Sunday, August 18th I departed Camp Fuji with my friends, Vega, Letty and their daughters Jody (age 21) and Maya (age 8) and left my husband and son behind at the Inn.  My husband had never planned on making the Fuji climb and we felt our son didn't have the stamina yet to endure such a hike.  We left for Gotenba Train Station at 4:00p, bought our bus tickets, and sat around until 6:00 or so for the bus to arrive.  The one hour bus ride dropped us off at the 5th Station of the Subashiri Trail.  This trail is one of four main trails on Mt. Fuji and considered one of the "easiest," but I find that hard to believe now that I've been on it.  Mt. Fuji is divided into 10 stations.  Most people start at 5, which is in the "middle" of the mountain, and work their way to the summit from there.  Subashiri 5th Station is composed of a covered area with picnic tables, two souvenir shops, and a restroom (cost: 200 yen per use).  The five of us took our time making sure we had everything we needed and began our trek at 8:30pm.  It was completely dark on the trail, so we used our flashlights to find our way. We moved through forest-like conditions and immediately started climbing large steps of rock in random formations.  With hiking stick in hand (cost: 900 yen at 5th Station, stamped and dated) I was confident that I was carrying the right amount of weight on my back to get me through this endeavor (one backpack, one Camelbak).  The five of us carefully and slowly ascended the mountain passing the occasional couple or hiking group making their way down the mountain.  Most greeted us with a polite "Konbanwa!" and continued on their way.  We said 'hello' to one Japanese couple, and asked them how their hike went.  The young woman responded with a pained look on her face, "Too much hard!"  Her reaction made us laugh and we continued our ascent not fully aware that we would share her sentiment within 24 hours.

This was the first time I hiked at night.  I enjoyed it for the most part.  It's not a creepy experience like one might expect.  It's very peaceful and the weather was perfect.  The sky was clear so you could see the moon through the trees.  After about an hour or so, we were able to peek through the tree line at the city below.  I tried to take pictures, but they didn't come out well at all.  The real photographers were found in other corners of the trail setting up their tripods and impressive looking cameras waiting to capture the perfect shot.  Jody and I started moving ahead from the other three and reached the 6th Station around 10pm.  Surprisingly, her cell phone had signal and she called down to her family who were about 15 minutes or so behind us.  I was surprised that it took us 90 minutes just to get from Station 5 to 6.  You can look up the elevations at each station by clicking this link http://www.fujiyama-navi.jp/fujitozan/route/page/subashiri/lang/en/.  After a 15 minute break, we continued up to New 7th Station.  This seemed longer than the stretch between 5 and 6.  The incline does NOT let up, and the later it got the more tired we became.  As we kept moving higher, the trees started to disappear and we were moving above the tree line.  The views down below were amazing.  Looking up I could see the next station.  The lights would twinkle from the hut making it look closer than it really was.  We had to take more frequent breaks along the trail due to the thinning air.  One of the most encouraging things to see on the trails are the signs that tell you that the next station is only 200 meters ahead.  There was not much to see at New 7th, so we kept moving toward Original 7th Station.  It was after midnight and a lot colder than it was when we started a few hours before.  I pulled out my beanie hat and heavier jacket.  By the time we reached Original 7th it was approximately 2:00 am.  Jody and I were exhausted.  I don't know how people get to the summit for sunrise without a solid 7-8 hours of sleep before climbing.  That one hour nap I had that afternoon wasn't cutting it.  Original 7th was equipped with a decent sized hut, toilets and benches.  The longer we sat resting, the colder we got.  I even stood in the toilet stall (mind you these are "squatter" toilets in a Port-a-Potty type building) for a few extra minutes just to enjoy the warmer temperature.  We had not planned on forking out the cash to sleep in a hut, but after sitting for awhile outside, we decided to invest in a few hours of sleep.  The huts cost an average of $60-$70 per person.  We shared a futon on a tatami mat platform since the requirement is to share futons. If I had been by myself, I may have had to share one with a stranger.  We went to sleep around 2:45a and awoke at the sound of the hut keeper at 4:45am in time for the sunrise.  Jody couldn't wake up enough to see it, so I stepped out on my own.  This is what I saw...

That's me in shadow.

Feeling surprisingly refreshed after only a couple of hours of sleep, I pulled out some snacks from my pack and had "breakfast."  After a few minutes I looked over, and there was Vega standing there watching the sunrise.  I told him his daughter was having a hard time getting up, so after a couple of attempts at waking her, he decided to go in and give it a try.  No luck.  At 6:00am we decided to continue up the mountain ourselves.  It took us 3 1/2 hours to get to the summit that morning.  The terrain is immensely dusty and rocky.  We took breaks at the 8th and 9th stations where the other trails come together.  It was fun to watch the station workers blow dust off people's clothing with leaf blowers.  There were Japanese Fuji guides leading tour groups in and out of 8th station.

8th Station--Fuji Guide pictured below

Our ascent to the summit included a lot more breaks along the trail.  The climb just doesn't get easier. We were following a long line of people to the top and it was encouraging to see that others needed to take a minute or two at each turn to summon some more strength to keep moving.  The 9th Station had no hut, but we moved off the trail to sit for a few minutes before making the home stretch to the summit.  I collected a few lava rocks here for souvenirs.

Break time at 9th Station (That's Vega in the upper right in the reclining position :)

After our break at 9th Station I was excited that we were finally going to make it to the top.  I thought the views of hikers descending the mountain made for great photos.

View of lower stations from the summit

When we reached the 10th Station the line slowed so each group of hikers could capture the moment on camera.  It was a great feeling to finally make it to the top despite the sore muscles I was developing in my legs.  The area at the summit looks like an open farmers market with souvenir stands, food vendors and benches for resting.  We spent 90 minutes at the top resting, walking and taking pictures.  I had my hiking stick branded with two summit stamps for 300 yen.  I also took pictures of the volcano's crater.  Hikers have the option of taking the hour walk around the crater, but at that point I had no desire to add extra hiking to my schedule.   I had to start thinking about getting down off this mountain!

The view could have been better at the top.  There were holes in the clouds where I could see down the mountain and out into the city.

We made it!

After a few more snacks and refills of water, we started our descent down the mountain.  Let me just say that if you read the reviews of the Subashiri Trail where the "sand slide" at 7th Station is considered "fun," just know that IT'S A LIE! This was the hardest part of the hike for me.  The descent from 10 to 7 was unstable enough with the terrain being nothing but dry, loose dirt and gravel.  After Station 7 you have the option of taking the sand slide that bypasses the 6th Station and rejoins the main trail right before Subashiri 5th Station.  This slide starts off as a ditch of dirt and gravel and does not let up until you're 20-30 minutes away from getting to 5th Station.  The dirt beneath your feet is constantly giving way so that you are "slide walking" at an uncomfortable momentum.  I don't know how people do it without a hiking stick to hold on to.  I tried to adjust my technique in walking, running, slalom stepping, etc.  But nothing was comfortable.  It took us 5 hours (with breaks) to reach the tree covered part of the trail.  I left my friend behind so he could rest his knee before conquering the last few hundred meters and crossed the "finish line" at 4:30p.  What made the descent worth it was observing three deer in the forest part of the trail.  They seemed very comfortable being around people, but I kept my distance.  I took some pictures, but none of them turned out well.  Little did I know I would get a better opportunity at photographing deer two days later in Nara near Kyoto.

When I passed through the Torii gate marking the 5th Station I lifted my arms in victory shouting, "Yes!!"  I was so tired and dirty beyond belief.  The station workers greeted me with "Okaerinasai!" (Welcome back!) and handed me a small round cup of water.  I was not prepared for the flavor of salt and fish (?) that attacked my taste buds.  It was not the cool drink of water I was hoping for.  Soon after I got back, my friends caught up with me and the only one left on the mountain was Jody.  She had made it to the summit on her own and was on her way down.  I decided to take the bus home ahead of them so I could shower and crash.  My husband picked me up at the train station and was proud of me for making the climb.

I'm glad I did it.  Climbing Fuji-san is not for wimps.  If I were to do it again, I would start at Station 1 and finish my ascent at a hut station, get 7-8 hours of sleep and then descend to Station 5.  I don't need to climb to the summit again.  Once is enough for me.

I would like to give credit to photographer, Andy Gray for writing such a true and detailed account of his Fuji hikes.  I was well-prepared for the hike in terms of supplies and hiking conditions because I read his blog.  To read his story, click here http://www.globalcompassion.com/climbing-fuji.htm

View of Mt. Fuji from Camp Fuji

Camp Fuji

After a warm night in the Mountain View Inn (Camp Fuji), we were awakened by loud explosions from heavy artillery that shook our room.  If I hadn't already been accustomed to living on military bases, this would have scared me more than it did.  Shortly after that the U.S. and Japan anthems played over the speakers marking that it was 0800.  I was excited to peek outside to get my first glimpse of the great mountain, but our window was facing the wrong direction.  We took our time getting ready for the day and then decided to find some food on base.  We were told that we could eat in the mess hall if we acted as if we were traveling with this high school band who were on base preparing for a performance.  By the time we got there, the mess hall was closed and the only other place to eat was for enlisted members only.  In addition to needing food, we also needed gas.  The fuel pumps were located at the most raw, industrial setup of a gas station I had ever seen.  Also, the attendant doesn't work on weekends, so we had to call to see if he would come out to turn on the pumps.  We waited for awhile and gave up and found gas out in town.  Gas is a lot more expensive off base since you are charged by the liter instead of the gallon.

The town where Mt. Fuji is located is called Gotenba (pronounced Go-tem-bah).  It is very Westernized with road medians, Denny's and Big Boy restaurants.  We ate at Denny's, but the only Denny's-esque dish available was french toast.  The rest was a kind of Japanese food common in family-style restaurants that does not agree with my stomach.

After our meal we went back to the Inn so I could take a nap before starting the hike.  I had about an hour of sleep and then I woke up to pack my gear.  As it turns out, an hour nap is not enough.  But, more on that later.

The Long and Winding Road (Driving to Mt. Fuji)

August 17, 2013 marked Day One of our family adventure to Mt. Fuji.  We traveled with another family in our separate rental cars from Sasebo to Camp Fuji (located near Tokyo).  I highly recommend renting a car from the Navy base because they give you toll passes to use throughout your cross country trek.  We literally saved hundreds of dollars in tolls round trip.  We left Sasebo at 4:30am and maneuvered our way through countless mountain tunnels and winding roads toward Fuji-san with the help of our Google Maps app.  After a couple of missed exits and u-turns, I finally got the hang of navigating my husband down the expressway. Trying to match the Kanji symbols on the the app with the Kanji on the road signs was tricky.  The drive was smooth and uneventful until about 1pm when we encountered a traffic jam due to homeward bound families who had participated in Obon Week festivities.  What was originally expected to be a 13 hour drive had just increased by 3 hours.

Despite the traffic issues, I enjoyed the fact that all of the rest areas in Japan are ON the highway.  They are big, clean, and resemble mini-malls.  There is no shortage of food, and the hi-tech Western toilets are always fun to use.

By nightfall we were still on the road getting closer and closer to what we thought was going to be Camp Fuji Marine Base.  When I plugged in our destination into Google Maps, I chose the Japanese Defense base that was supposed to be right across the street from Camp Fuji since I couldn't find Camp Fuji itself in the app.  It turns out I chose the wrong Japanese base.  It was already after 9pm and we were all so tired from traveling.  One of the Japanese guards tried to talk to us, but he could tell by the look on my face that I wasn't understanding anything he was saying.  He called over another guard who had minimal English skills, so we tried comparing our iPhone maps to find Camp Fuji.  It turns out we had turned away from Camp Fuji when we got off the expressway, so we started driving back the way we came.  Another 30-45 mins went by and we finally saw the small Torii gate marking the base.

Now, if you know anything about the Marines, they are not known for luxurious accommodations.  We had reservations at the Mountain View Inn on the base and the desk clerk was not there when we arrived.  Our rooms had been left unlocked so we could get in to sleep and check in the next morning.  When we walked in we discovered the room had no air conditioning.  At that point, I just wanted to go to sleep. So we dropped our bags and crashed next to the basic fan oscillating on top of the side table.